Canning, Curing, Pickling

By Riki Shore When I first moved to LA, now two years ago, I had a great lunch at Little Flower Candy Company. It was a simple salmon salad accented with thin slices of pickled kumquat. I had never eaten pickled kumquat before that lunch and the way the teensy slivers packed an enormous punch of flavor astounded me. I’ve wanted to make pickled kumquats ever since. In LA, kumquats, like all citrus, grow all over the place. It’s easy to find yourself with a pound of the jewel-like fruits for free, handed over by a friend or neighbor. In […]

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By Riki Shore Inspired by the late peaches at our farmer’s market, I scoured my cookbooks recently for a peach recipe that wasn’t a dessert. I wanted to combine the sweetness of the fruit with something savory, spicy and even a little acidic. Deborah Madison’s wonderful cookbook Local Flavors has a recipe for Spiced Peaches that contains just a tablespoon of sweet balsamic vinegar. I decided to use this as a starting point, adding a few more ingredients and cooking the mixture longer to break down the peaches. The resulting chutney is delicious. We’ve spooned it over grilled chicken and […]

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By Riki Shore In April of this year, Andrea Reusing published her first cookbook, Cooking in the Moment. Reusing is the chef and owner of the Chapel Hill, NC restaurant Lantern, one of my favorite places to eat in the Triangle, so I was eager to try out her recipes. The whole book is worthwhile, but the most interesting section for me was the one on pickling fruits and vegetables. I couldn’t wait until the end of summer to try these pickled figs. Figs seem to grow all over the place near my house. The bakery right next door as […]

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By Riki Shore What the heck is confit? How do you pronounce it? And what does it have to do with tomatoes anyway? Tomatoes are at their sweetest this time of year in southern California and, while I don’t like eating raw tomatoes, I love them cooked, stewed, and sun-dried. I came across this recipe from one of my favorite professional chefs, Jean-Georges Vongerichten. He consistently makes the most flavorful food with the fewest ingredients – which is not to say that all his recipes call for five or six ingredients. Some of them have a list a dozen, or […]

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By Riki Shore Here are two versatile pickle recipes that adults and kids alike will enjoy. These are great in salads, added to a charcuterie plate or just for snacking. Enjoy! These cucumber pickles are adapted from David Chang’s Momofuku cookbook. 1/2 Hothouse cucumber, or 1 medium cucumber, rinsed well 1 cup water 1/2 cup rice wine vinegar 6 tablespoons sugar 2 1/4 teaspoons Kosher salt 1.┬áThinly slice the cucumber and place in a sterilized jar. 2. Heat the remaining ingredients in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and simmer two minutes. Pour the brine over the sliced cucumbers. Cover the jar with […]

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By Riki Shore Kumquats are tiny oblong fruits shaped like olives, but with the skin of oranges. They are expensive, full of seeds, and very sour. The best thing is if a friend has a kumquat tree and gives you a big bowl of them and you’re wondering how in the world to eat them. This recipe, adapted from Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc at Home, uses the natural pectin in the fruit, which helps the marmalade set, and matches it with sugar and tangerines for increased sweetness. Pair this marmalade with cheeses and charcuterie, or use it as a glaze […]

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